These two young surfers are part of the 1st generation of surfers at HT’s in the remote island chain, the Mentawai islands, Indonesia way back in the early 2000’s. All of their surfing hardware had been sourced via the surfers on boat charters. Except for perhaps their shorts?!
Continue reading “The Great Surf Hardware Supply Challenge”The Language of Surfing.
Our local ferry trip to the Mentawai islands at the turn of the century, was not the usual choice taken by surfers of that time. With malaria rampant through the islands, most surfers chose surf charter boats, then risk staying in any kind of local accommodation with the mosquitos.
Continue reading “The Language of Surfing.”